For obvious reasons, fishing boat designers prioritize open space over comfortable seating. Bay and flats boats in particular tend to have expansive raised decks forward and aft for casting but often nowhere to sit except at the helm and possibly a one-person jump seat on the front of the console. There’s nothing wrong with that; fishing boats are for fishing.
That being said, even the crustiest anglers among us are likely to leave the rods at home every once in a while and take family or friends for a cruise. And when we do, we’re usually short of seating. Beanbags are an easy solution, but take up a lot of space. Another way to add “on-demand” comfortable seating is with removable backrests, which are costlier but cleaner looking and far easier to manage and store.
Contents
Shop This Project
The Project Boat
This project boat, an Andros Backwater 18 (now built by Abaco Marine), is a panga-style flats boat. Its high, flared bow and self-bailing cockpit make it significantly more capable than most flats boats of similar size. As our kids grew, we chose this boat to replace a poling skiff primarily because it was more versatile and rated for five people. We’ve made previous upgrades and modifications to capitalize on that versatility, such as installing aft rod holder-cleats for nearshore trolling.
In addition to fishing the flats and nearshore waters, the boat is regularly used for family activities like boat camping, river cruises, scalloping, snorkeling and sandbar trips.
On those days, though, we often wished we had extra seating.
There are three seats at the helm and one (not very comfortable) jumpseat on the front of the console.
But with more than three people aboard, at least one person almost always sits on the forward deck.
Until recently, we brought a beanbag to make the forward deck more comfortable, but on a small boat we found it took up a lot of space we could have used for other things.
About Forward Seating Backrests
Boat Outfitters’ Forward Seating Backrests combined with a pair of Sea Hunt Backrest Seat Supports seemed like an ideal solution. Although the Sea Hunt bases are exact OEM replacements for the bases used by Sea Hunt, they can be used on many different brands and styles of boats. We measured and found that they would fit very well on the vertical face of the “step” up to the forward deck.
Similar backrest setups are increasingly common on both bay boats and offshore boats with forward seating arrangements. In effect, they turn a “backless” bench seat into a forward-facing lounger. When they’re not needed, the backrests can be simply lifted out of their bases and stowed. In addition to the surface-mount bases used for this project, flush-mount bases are also available.
Removable backrest setups are increasingly common on both bay boats and offshore boats with forward seating arrangements.
Selecting Fasteners and Backing
Because leaning against the backrest exerts considerable force on the base, mounting the base with bolts — as opposed to screws — is recommended.
In a fairly thick solid fiberglass panel or a panel cored with a relatively dense material like fiberglass or Coosa board, self-tapping #14 screws should be sufficient, but in a thinner panel of solid fiberglass or a panel cored with foam or honeycomb, through-bolting will be far stronger. The only downside of through-bolting is that it requires access to the back of the mounting surface.
On our project boat, we had to temporarily remove a small inset tackle box to reach the back of the planned mounting area. The mounting area was an approximately 1/4”-thick solid fiberglass panel with plenty of clearance behind for a wrench and nut.
Screws might have worked just fine, but with easy access for through-bolting, the choice was easy.
The mounting area was an approximately 1/4”-thick solid fiberglass panel with plenty of clearance behind for a wrench and nut.
The next question was whether to use a backing plate or panel behind the mounting surface. Although a backing plate fabricated from aluminum or King Starboard is ideal, we chose to use 1-1/2” fender washers. With eight fasteners, the fender washers provide quite a bit of surface area, and using washers instead of fabricating a backing plate saved both time and expense.
We chose 1/4”-20 flathead bolts, which required a very slight enlargement of the fastener holes with a drill as the holes are drilled and countersunk for #14 fasteners.
Tools and Supplies
In addition to stainless steel bolts, lock nuts and fender washers, we used the following tools and supplies:
- Measuring tape
- Pencil
- Masking tape
- Square
- Cordless drill with 1/4” bit
- #3 Phillips screwdriver
- 7/16” wrench
- Angle grinder with cutoff wheel (optional)
- Marine sealant
Positioning the Bases
After figuring out mounting hardware and gathering tools, the next step was deciding exactly where the bases should go. We wanted them as far apart as comfortably possible so there would be plenty of room between them to walk to the bow. At the same time, we didn’t want them so far outboard that people using them would be crowded against the gunwale.
We did a couple of “test sits” to find the ideal spot on one side and then marked where the center of the base would need to go. Then we measured the distance from the centerline of the boat to that spot and marked a spot in the same location on the other side. Then we lightly marked the center of each base. (Note that pencil is difficult to get off Starboard; mark very lightly or use a piece of tape to mark.)
We wanted the backrests as far apart as comfortably possible so there would be plenty of room between them to walk to the bow.
Keeping the Bases Vertical
With the side-to-side location of each base marked, the next step was to make sure they were “plumb.” For this, we used a square rather than a spirit level or plumb bob. Because the boat was sitting on a trailer on an uneven driveway, mounting the bases so that the aluminum arms were truly vertical or plumb would have likely made them crooked in relation to the deck.
Instead, we used a simple speed square to make sure the bases were at a 90-degree angle to the deck and then lightly traced their outer edges onto the mounting surface.
In terms of vertical positioning, we wanted the bases as high as reasonably possible for the best support. The fender washers we were using extended above the top of the bases, meaning we would have to lower the bases a bit in order for the washers to lay against a flat surface.
Instead of mounting the bases lower, we opted to simply cut a little bit of material off of the four topmost washers. This allowed us to mount the bases a bit higher.
Installing the Bases
Before starting to drill, we carefully masked the edges of the mounting area, both to avoid accidentally damaging the gelcoat and to make it easier to clean up excess sealant at the end of the job.
With eight fasteners, getting all the holes drilled in exactly the right positions would be difficult. Rather than trying to mark all eight holes at once and drill them, we did them a few at a time.
First, we held the seat base in position and marked one of the top holes with the tip of the bit.
Then we removed the base, drilled that hole, and inserted a bolt through the base and hole.
Rather than trying to mark all eight holes at once and drill them, we did them a few at a time.
Adding Sealant
With that one corner bolt in place, we used the square to make double-sure the vertical alignment was correct, then drilled a second hole straight through the pre-drilled hole in the base, and inserted a second screw.
With two screws in place, the base was locked in position, and we drilled the remaining six holes, using the pre-drilled holes in the base as a guide.
With all holes drilled, we removed the two bolts we had used to hold the base in place, removed the base itself and applied elastomeric marine sealant to the back of the base.
Because the mounting surface was solid fiberglass, sealing moisture out of the fastener holes wasn’t vitally important.
Because the mounting surface was solid fiberglass, sealing moisture out of the fastener holes wasn’t vitally important.
Final Install
With a cored panel, on the other hand, it’s very important to prevent water intrusion into the holes. In this case, we used sealant simply to keep water from seeping behind the seat base and possibly causing crevice corrosion.
Finally, we installed and tightened all the bolts, using a hand screwdriver toward the end to be sure not to damage the bolt heads, which can lead to corrosion.
We also made a point to tighten the bolts in a “cross” pattern like you would tighten lug nuts and then aligned the heads for a more polished look.
Then we removed the masking tape and repeated the process with the other base.
Was It Worth It?
After four or five trips, the new backrests are a hit with everyone who has been on board. They’re comfortable and secure even at cruising speeds in reasonably calm water and a huge improvement over sitting backwards on the edge of the front deck.
The beanbag they replaced was also very comfortable but really only accommodated one person. My wife and daughter occasionally shared it, but not happily.
When not in use, the beanbag was always in the way. The new backrests, on the other hand, can be easily stowed in a compartment.
Also, when not in use, the beanbag was always in the way. The new backrests, on the other hand, can be easily stowed in a compartment. Our only complaint is that the deck gets hard after a while. Next up are removable seat cushions.