Aluminum Powder Coated Framed Side Console Door
Built to Your Specifications!
Weather resistant seal integrated directly into your door returns.
Option of face mounting or mounting through frame inside flange.?
Add vented louvers to increase air flow.?Our louvers are created via staggered perpendicular lines The first is cut from the front & the second from the rear. This allows air flow while minimizing water that is blown through the door!
These doors require cut-outs with radius corners. For more information,?please view this important document.
King Starboard® Color Reference Guide
||brightest white color
||slightly off white color
||off white eggshell color
||off white almond color
||standard light gray color
||light sandy gray color
||standard solid black color
Please Note: Many builders have gone through color changes and utilize different color schemes on different boats. The above list should not be considered a definitive resource. For your reference, we have compiled a "best guess" list matching boat manufacturers' colors.
Download Builder Color List
Color Sample Chain
Because parts are built to order, we cannot accept any returns on account of color discrepancy. We offer sample chains at cost for all customers. If you are unsure which color best matches your boat, we highly recommend purchasing a set!
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Aluminum Framed Console Door Mounting Instructions
Our aluminum powder coated framed doors generally mount with either face mounting holes through the front face of the frame, or via inside mounting holes through the frame's inside flange. The frame overlap is 7/8", the outside corner radius is 4.5" and?the inside cutout hole radius is 3.625".
Face Mounting Holes
Face mounting is the quickest & most convenient way to install your new aluminum framed door.
- Draw the cutout dimension of your new door on to your fiberglass. Often, the easiest way to do this is to wait until you receive your new door and trace around the outside of your frame. This allows you to locate and feel comfortable with the final door location. Then measure in 7/8" all the way around to establish your hole cutout.
- Carefully cut your hole using a saber saw. Once your hole is cutout, place your door in your hole & use a pencil to mark your mounting holes. Remove your door and pre-drill holes. A pilot hole can be drilled for your screw mounting while a pass through hole can be drilled if your prefer to bolt on your door.
- Place a small dab of Tef-Gel on the mounting hole area. Mount your frame with either stainless steel #8 screws or stainless steel 8-32 bolts.
Inside Mounting Holes
Inside mounting holes offer a clean, flush, no fastener look.
- Draw the cutout dimension of your new door onto your fiberglass. Often, the easiest way to do this is wait until you receive your new door and trace around the outside of your frame. This allows you to locate and feel comfortable with the final door location. Then measure in 7/8" all the way around to establish your hole cut out.
- Carefully cut your hole using a saber saw. Evaluate the fiberglass wall thickness. If you have less than 1/2" of wall thickness, you will need to add an additional buildup on the inside of your cutout. If you already have 1/2" of wall thickness, skip to step 4.
- To add build up to the inside of your cut out, you will fasten strips through the front of the fiberglass mounting surface such that the fasteners are covered by the door frame when installed. These strips can be composed of any marine grade material.
- Place the door in to the cut out and drill pilot holes through the mounting holes on the frames inside flange.
- Place a small dab of Tef-Gel on the pilot holes and run #8 screws through your frameworks and in to the fiberglass/build up.