Where and How to Use Ultra Tef-Gel on Your Boat
December 11, 2023 7 min read
When it comes to preventing corrosion caused by contact between aluminum and stainless steel in the presence of an electrolyte like saltwater, there are few better means of prevention than Ultra Tef-Gel, a unique paste containing 40% polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) powder. But many boaters don’t realize just how many places on their boats aluminum and stainless come in close contact.
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Where to Use Tef-Gel on Your Boat
Among the most common symptoms of galvanic corrosion on boats, trailers and lifts is difficulty disassembling things. Stainless steel screws and bolts seize in their holes, and parts such as steering wheels “freeze” in place. Additionally, contact between stainless and aluminum can cause unsightly surface corrosion on the aluminum. Some of the places this can happen are obvious, but some might come as a surprise. Let’s look at a few places Tef-Gel can make your life easier by preventing corrosion and seizing.
Anywhere something is attached to an aluminum structure — an antenna base, for example, or a spreader light — stainless steel fasteners have probably been used.
Towers, Platforms and Rails
The vast majority of so-called “pipework” on boats is aluminum. That includes T-tops and hard tops, towers, poling and casting platforms, swim platforms and grab rails. Stainless fasteners are commonly used not just to secure the feet of these structures to your deck, but also wherever there’s hinge point, like on a fold-down step or folding tower. Likewise, anywhere something else is attached to an aluminum structure — an antenna base, for example, or a spreader light — stainless steel fasteners have probably been used.
Outboard Brackets and Jackplates
Both manual and hydraulic jackplates are made of aluminum, as are bolt-on outboard brackets like the popular Armstrong brackets. But the bolts used to attach the bracket or jackplate to the transom, as well as those used to attach the engine to the plate or bracket, are stainless.
Inset Storage Units
Although many inset tackle cabinets and similar storage units use machined Starboard frames, others use powder-coated aluminum. Boat Outfitters makes both. Some customers prefer an aluminum frame, since it’s slightly lower profile than Starboard and uses hidden fasteners for a cleaner look. The stainless mounting screws contact the aluminum frame.
Trolling Motors and Hydraulic Anchors
Power-Pole and similar shallow water anchors attach to your transom via powder-coated aluminum brackets and stainless hardware. Most bow-mount trolling motors also attach with stainless bolts passing through an aluminum plate.
Helm Shafts and Steering Wheels
A light coating of Tef-Gel on the helm shaft and inside the hub of the steering wheel can keep them from freezing in the first place.
Finding a steering wheel frozen to the helm shaft is all too common on boats. They can generally be removed with a special puller tool, but a light coating of Tef-Gel on the shaft and inside the hub of the wheel can keep them from freezing in the first place.
Canvas and Upholstery Snaps
Helm enclosures and similar canvas pieces are frequently attached to aluminum pipework with stainless steel snaps. The part of the snap that mounts to the aluminum is prone to corrosion. Even if your snaps aren’t attached to aluminum, corrosion and seizing can be a problem, leading to stuck snaps.
Seat Swivels, Levers and Slides
Marine seat bases are often constructed of aluminum with stainless fasteners. Like snaps, they’re prone to corroding and freezing in place.
Outrigger Bases
Inserting an aluminum outrigger pole into a stainless steel base and exposing both to salt spray is a recipe for corrosion. The problem is made worse by the fact that outrigger bases often don’t get as much attention at washdown time because their location makes them harder to access.
Inserting an aluminum outrigger pole into a stainless steel base and exposing both to salt spray is a recipe for corrosion.
Propeller Shafts
Splined prop shafts on outboards and outdrives are typically stainless steel, while the metal inside the propeller hub that comes in direct contact with the shaft may be one of several materials. Regardless, props have a tendency to freeze onto shafts.
Electrical Terminals
Tef-Gel doesn’t recommend using the product inside heat-shrink crimped connections as it can keep the lining of the heat-shrink for adhering to the wire insulation.
Tef-Gel is excellent for preventing corrosion on wire terminals and the electrical gremlins that come with it.
But on wire terminals — such as the blade-style disconnects found on the back of marine rocker switches, ring or spade terminals used to connect wires to fuse blocks or bus bars, and even connections inside battery switches — Tef-Gel is excellent for preventing corrosion and the electrical gremlins that come with it. Battery terminal connections also benefit.
Trailer Hardware
Aluminum boat trailers are assembled with stainless fasteners. In some cases, galvanized steel components like tongues, axles and bunk brackets are also in direct contact with aluminum.
Boat Lifts
Most boat lifts are made from aluminum stock, stainless steel fasteners and, in some cases, galvanized bunk brackets and other hardware.
Fishing Reel Clamps
Most conventional saltwater reels have either all-aluminum bodies or at least aluminum frames. But they are typically clamped to their rods using stainless steel machine screws.
What sets Tef-Gel apart is that it doesn’t wash away or deteriorate in saltwater or detergents, providing long-term protection.
How to Use Ultra Tef-Gel
Ultra Tef-Gel’s greatest advantage is not its ability to prevent corrosion, but rather its ability to prevent corrosion for long periods of time. In other words, there are plenty of products that can act as a barrier between dissimilar metals for a short period of time. What sets Tef-Gel apart is that it doesn’t wash away or deteriorate in saltwater or detergents, providing long-term protection.
In part because of that, it should be used sparingly. Which is a good thing, because the stuff isn’t cheap. Just a very light coating is enough. Tef-Gel is thick and gooey, about like silicone caulk, which means it can be tough to apply to small parts — and easy to make a mess with. It’s also hard to get off. A small brush like an old toothbrush works well for application.
Once a fastener is seized or a part frozen in place, it’s too late for Tef-Gel.
On fasteners, run a thin line of Tef-Gel along the threads and then use the brush to spread it around, making sure all threads are covered. Be sure to coat the bottom of the fastener head too. If possible, it certainly doesn’t hurt to apply a bit to the inside of the fastener hole too. A small bottle brush or even an old mascara brush works well.
On mating surfaces, such prop shafts, seat slides, outrigger bases and electrical connections, apply a thin, even coating to both surfaces if possible.
A Preventative Measure, Not a Cure
A final word: as good as Tef-Gel is at preventing corrosion, it doesn’t remedy corrosion. In other words, Tef-Gel is strictly a preventative measure. That’s not to say it can’t dramatically slow down corrosion even after it has started, but it cannot reverse it. Once a fastener is seized or a part frozen in place, it’s too late for Tef-Gel. Instead, Tef-Gel is best used before corrosion starts, so the next time you’re adding a new accessory where aluminum and stainless come in contact — or replacing an existing one — add a thin coat to ensure easy disassembly down the road.
