Boat maintenance is an unavoidable part of boat ownership. Whether you have a new boat or an older one, it doesn’t take long for “gremlins” to start to appear — a courtesy light that is out, a pump that stops working, or worse, engine issues that ruin a day on the water.
New boat owners learn quickly that there are two ways to deal with these issues: proactively through regular boat maintenance routines, or reactively at the dock, trying to salvage a trip after something breaks. Experienced boat owners know that planned maintenance is always more enjoyable than unplanned repairs.
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Making a Boat Maintenance Plan
Keeping your boat in top shape requires both discipline and routine. Whether your boat is subjected to the hot salty conditions of the south or the seasonal freezes of the north, it is always under attack from the elements. A regular boat maintenance plan will help you stay ahead of issues, and save time and money in the long run.
A regular boat maintenance plan will help you stay ahead of issues.
Most of the regular boat maintenance you’ll need to do consists of relatively small chores and checks that should be done every time you use your boat — checking your oil (two-stroke or four-stroke) before a trip, flushing your engine and washing down your boat afterwards, recharging your batteries, and so on.
Quarterly Boat Maintenance Checklist:
More difficult to keep track of are the longer-interval maintenance checks and chores that should be performed every few months or even annually. Keeping a log of these maintenance activities can not only make it easier to keep up with them, but can also significantly improve the resale value of your boat when you decide to sell it. Here’s a basic quarterly boat maintenance checklist.
Electrical System Protection
Taking time proactively to spray electronic connections with a corrosion inhibitor such as Boeshield T-9, TC-11 Corrosion Inhibitor or CRC 6-56, will keep you ahead of the corrosion battle. Once every few months, take a moment to give a quick spray of your bus bar, fuse panel, plugs, the backside of your switch panel, battery terminals and any electrical connections.
Be aware of the surrounding areas that may get an unintentional overspray, and check the label of the corrosion inhibitor product you choose to make sure it won’t eat plastic or damage surrounding areas.
Loose Screws
Vibration is a fact of life on boats, and over time, screws, nuts and other fasteners will work their way loose. Check all of the hatches, hinges, console, railings and T-top for screws that have begun to work their way out. This is a good time to check your outboard mounting bolts as well! If you find a screw has simply backed out, remove it completely, add a little marine sealant to the screw, then screw it back in (be careful not to overtighten!).
If the hole has become too big for the screw, you may need to fill the hole with epoxy, then re-drill the hole, again adding marine sealant to the screw to ensure it stays put.
Lower Unit Oil Inspection
Lower unit gear oil in outboard motors and outdrives should be changed every 100 hours of operation or annually, whichever comes first. But inspecting your oil more frequently can alert you to water intrusion and head off serious problems. To quickly check your lower unit fluid, leave the top fill screw in, and place a small, clean bucket underneath the lower fill screw.
Remove the lower fill screw briefly to allow a small amount of fluid to drain into the bucket. If the fluid is milky, you may have water intrusion and need to get the lower unit resealed. You definitely need to replace and refill the fluid before the next trip.
Don’t forget to check the fill screw itself, which is magnetized to attract metal shavings. If significant shavings are attached, have the engine checked out by a mechanic.
Burned Out Bulbs
Keeping your boat lights running is a constant battle, so having a quarterly routine to test and replace bad bulbs will help you stay one step ahead.
“Shark eye”-style bow lights in particular can easily go bad without your knowledge, since they aren’t visible from inside the boat. LED bulbs last much longer than the old incandescent, and there are often drop-in LED replacements that fit old incandescent lights.
Hull/Deck Protection
Keeping your boat waxed does more than just make it look good; it protects the gelcoat from oxidation. Wax seals and protects the gelcoat, making routine cleaning much faster and reducing long-term staining from tannic water. If you find that your hull stains quickly, having your boat’s gelcoat polished and waxed can virtually eliminate the staining. A widely accepted rule of thumb is that tubes should be at least 25” in diameter for so-called “big water.” Like a third pontoon, taller, thicker tubes keep the deck higher off the water and provide added buoyancy to ride open and over waves.
Wax seals and protects the gelcoat, making routine cleaning much faster and reducing long-term staining from tannic water.
Wax isn’t just for the hull itself, either. 'A quality deck wax, when applied properly, can protect your deck without causing it to be slippery. These products are easy to apply after you’ve thoroughly cleaned your deck, and will make future cleaning much easier. Don’t forget to add a protectant to any rubber or rubberized plastic on your boat, such as your rub rail or latches. 303 Aerospace Protectant is a great product for this purpose.
Finally, all vinyl should be cleaned, if needed, with a marine vinyl cleaner and then coated with a vinyl protectant for easier cleaning and better resistance to UV damage.
Safety Gear Check
Safety gear is often neglected after the initial purchase. A fire extinguisher that has expired or depressurized will not save your boat in an emergency.
Expired pyrotechnic distress signals may or may not function as intended but certainly won’t pass muster during a safety check.
Strobe lights, handheld VHFs and other electronic safety gear won’t do you any good if their batteries are dead. Take time each quarter to remove, inspect and clean up your safety equipment to ensure it’s ready when you need it.
Corrosion Check
Dissimilar metals will cause corrosion if they are in contact with one another in the presence of an electrolyte like water. Take time quarterly to look for and address any rust stains, pitting or discoloration in or around metals on your boat. Several effective rust stain removers are available.
Stainless steel screws that are rusting should be removed and replaced, and the new screw should be coated with marine sealant before being re-inserted. In the case of any significant corrosion, you’ll want to investigate the cause.
Hull Inspection
Whenever you give your hull a thorough cleaning, take a moment to inspect it for damage. Pay close attention to areas with hard angles, such as lifting strakes, chines, splash well and transom areas.
Some spider cracking in gelcoat is normal in these areas, but monitor cracks to ensure they aren’t growing larger.
Some spider cracking in gelcoat is normal in these areas, but monitor cracks to ensure they aren’t growing larger. Taking a few photos and filing them for future reference can help you tell if cracks are widening or lengthening. Any staining in or around cracks should be taken seriously and may indicate a hull penetration.
Fuel Filter/Water Separator Inspection
Water and other contaminants in fuel are highly destructive for your engine, and most manufacturers install a combination fuel filter/water separator to protect against this risk. It is important to remove the cup (if your separator includes one) and inspect it for water on a quarterly basis. Replace the fuel filter at least once per year.
Trailer Inspection
If you keep your boat on a trailer, take time once a quarter to thoroughly inspect the frame and all components. Jack up the trailer to check the bearings (grinding or any play in the assembly indicates a bad bearing).
Jack up the trailer to check the bearings (grinding or any play in the assembly indicates a bad bearing). Check your tires for dry-rot, inspect your springs/torsion axle systems, check your winch strap, and lubricate your tongue jack.
Test your lights, and look carefully at your bunks and the hardware supporting them. If there is significant corrosion in the hardware holding your bunks, replace it immediately. The damage a broken bunk can do to a hull is significant!
Propeller Shaft Inspection
Regardless of whether you fish from your boat or not, fishing line can find its way around your prop shaft. As this line works its way in, it can damage the seal behind the propeller and allow water into your lower unit.
It’s a good practice to remove your propeller several times a year to inspect for debris and liberally re-lubricate your propeller shaft with marine grease.
Corrosion can form between the prop and shaft, making it difficult to remove your prop and potentially damaging both.
Engine Start Up
If you haven’t used your boat in the last month, take a moment to let it run for a few minutes. Doing so will ensure the cylinders remain lubricated and will protect the internal parts from corrosion. If the boat will be sitting for more than a few months, have a mechanic properly prepare it for storage and address your fuel system as well.